Wax and Grease Remover Question

[Garry]

So far I've tried 3M brand & Norton Bodyshop degreaser to "clean" my B/C before taping out my flames. Both of them acted more like a paint "remover" than a "cleaner". Gummed it up, streaked the hell out of it..just basically "ruined" my B/C right down to the primer.Had to block sand it out, re-shoot the B/C..you get the idea. The B/C had over 72hrs to dry due to my work schedule.Came home, psyched up on laying out my flames, blew the tank off w/air, tack-clothed it, hit it with degreaser, and watched it turn into a nightmare.What gives? I mixed the B/C per OEM instructions, had more than enough time to dry, now my "new" B/C is on and what the hell do I wipe it down with? Don't want to go through that again.Do you think just blowing it off and tacking it would suffice?I dont feel comfortable with-out wiping it down with "something". I'm using PPG Brand paints, so quality of paint shouldn't be an issue...just a little disgusted, sorry for venting..need advice....thanx guys.

 

[tooter]

i found that ppg has preety strong kleaner i have had no problems with dianmonts 900 pre kleno 902 for plastics

 

[TAZ]

Sorry to hear about your wax and degreaser problem.

You might want to try PPG's 837 cleaner. Although it is not a wax and grease remover, it is a great pre-paint cleaner. It is not very harsh. You shouldn't really need a wax and grease remover in between the base and the flames.

I know it's too late now, but it might have been a good idea to throw a coat of clear over the base before you flame it. I mention this in the How-To section "Tips" on Step 4.
A couple of reasons for this (especially if you have not sprayed flames before).

1)Just in case you get overspray from the flames onto the base. It will be very easy to wipe off if you have a coat of clear over the base.
2)You mentioned that you let the base dry 72 hours. On most systems, you might have an adhesion problem with the clear. If you are going to flame directly over base, it's a good idea to do it the same day or next day. Basecoat dries very quickly.
3)This way prevents any type of problems arising such as yours. You basically "seal" the base, then start fresh for the flames. On a more complicated job like the Layered flame job I did in my "Samples of work" I pretty much put a thin single coat of clear between most steps.

If you clear the base before the flames, be sure and re-wetsand it with 1200. This will give your flames and final clear something to "bite" into.

Though the above will take a little more time and materials, it sometimes can prevent this from happening.

 

[Garry]

Thank you guys again for the help..I'm not one to give up that easy. What really cracks me up is this is about the 4th time I've done this tank.."why?"..well, I so called "practiced" with Model Paint Enamels over the existing factory paint then cleared over them. ( yeah, ya can slap me )screwed up thing is it came out pretty damn good "lookin"..then the fact of knowin it was a 1/2 assed job,I decided to buy real materials and do the job right. Still a learning experience, but I'm determined, and I'll be sure to post the pix when I'm done..along with the prior "practice" attempts along the way. Thanks Again for all the input and advice...catch up with ya later....Happy New Year!!