The best clear on the market?

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guest01

Guest
haha, Yeah right by whose standards! First, if any of you are familar with Restorers Choice you know they use indedendent distributors to market there product! I want to clarify that I DO NOT WORK for them! haha.In fact there are some things I don't like about it that I'll mention.

Lets cover the good points first, its is a fantatic clear for spot repairs and in fact for graphics because its the fastest drying clear on the market. Can be wet sanded and buffed in 30 minutes at 77 degree's.Half that at ten degree's hotter. Really it can, I do it every day! It also has great build up properties. One coat is like two coats of PPG's high solids clear! I believe it myself after so much wet sanding on the stuff. Because it dry's so fast it has great repairability properties as well! I have used so many clears, and this is my favorite even with the things I don't like about it.

I should mention I have an on-site business and I work outside for car dealers, and there is nothing better than shooting a panel or bumper just in time before it rains and your clear being cured out enough so it doesn't ruin your job!

BTW, they make other clears ranging from 55 minute dry to 3 1/2 hour drying times and all there clears can be mixed. The chemist who formulated these clears was a chemist for some major paint companies also. These clears have great anti-run properties as well!

The things I don't like about them.....major tendencies to fisheye, but only if there are contaminants in the air or you didn't prep properly.
It will solvent pop for sure if you shoot it in the sun. Especially dark colors.

It will cause lift on metallics if you don't shoot at least one tack coat....(I started shooting 2 or 3 if place of 2 wet coats) tack coats also seem to help with the fisheye problem!

I have had die back problems, but never figured out why with this clear. It has only happened once and it was a black hood painted in the sun, so it must have dried too fast before the color was flashed off. Also, you MUST let you base coats flash enough between coats and flash for at leats 20-25 minutes before clearing.

Other than those things I love this clear! I used another clear for awhile and had to come back to this. The things I like about it outweigh the things I don't like about it. Also, I've been using it awhile now and really don't have any problems with it any more! If you get it they have a really good tech book that come's with it. They only run around $100 for a gallon kit!

And in my opinion it is far superior than some clears costing 2 or 3 times as much.
 

ezrider

New member
what happens when this clear is tapped? it shatters like glass, faster is not always better especialy when it comes to custom paint. you need a little durability to go along with the beauty
shocked.gif
 

rex

New member
I'm with EZ again.99% of the time in this buisness,the faster something dries the brittler it becomes.About 15 years ago I was using Glasurit.They had a 'polar' hardner that kicked so quick that at 70 degrees you waited about 30 seconds between coats and cleaned your gun immediately-clearing the side of a car was impossible.Buff in 45 minutes.If you waited a few hours you might as well buff the cement floor,it was easier.That was the fastest I saw,until now.
 
G

guest01

Guest
So if I painted a bumper in the sun and it peels you guys are saying it dried too fast and thats why? I know for a fact I prepped very well! Well, like I said in my other post I don't know everything, in fact I'm sure there's a lot I can learn, supposedly, they claim if you have a peeler you over catlyzed but this makes more sense. I have a few friends that say they have never had a problem with it but I have had a few peelers with this stuff!

For certain applications its a must for what I do. But I think I'm gonna limit how I use this stuff. Hey, thanks guys!!!!

Clausen
 

rex

New member
Theat's one reason.If it flashes and dries too quick it doesn't have time to eat in to it's base.I didn't think about it before,but if the bumper is that molded-in-color-slimy plastic-possibly textured POS like on the Dodge Neons,you don't have a problem.Nothing sticks to these *#@&%! things.I've tried almost every way to make a repair or paint stick to these and it won't work.As long as you have a 'wrap' you're fine,but a scratch or chip and it comes off in sheets.
 
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