Setting up HVLP for clears - Rex?

[Gunner]

I'm getting ready to get myself set up with a decent quality sprayer. I'm considering the Finishline II HVLP. I will be doing a fair amount of spraying since I do woodworking as well, so I'll be spraying with just about everything.

In an earlier post, Rex said setting up the HVLP's for today's thicker clears was a pain. Can anyone (particularly Rex) give a little more info on why and what you need to make sure you set up correctly? I simply can't justify more than one gun and want to make the best choice considering my needs and budget.

For reference, my first proiect (after test panels, of course) will be ghost flaming my Honda Shadow with HoK black base, white/silver pearl airbrushed flames, and U35 clear coat.

DG

 

[rex]

DG,I think the HVLPs are a pain because I haven't spent time with them,they work great for bases but I've never got the few I've tried to dial in on clear.For woodworking I have no idea.

 

[Gunner]

I was more concerned with the clear coats that I'd be using on my bike for now, but thanks for the response.

 

[big stinkie]

I use an HVLP for all my stuff. I've found that with clears I need a little more air pressure and let a little more fluid through than with base coats. Squirt a tack coat on first...doesn't have to be real smooth. Once it sets up a bit you can squirt it on a little heavier and it will flow out. Don't get too many or coats that are too thick or you'll risk getting solvent pop. The results look like little 7-Up bubbles in the clear. Not good, unless you're trying to make your tank look like a bottle of soda. ;-)

It's kinda hard to explain some of this stuff. I'm pretty new at this (about 18 months of fooling with it) and have found out that it's more of an art than a science. You gotta get used to your gun, your paint, your shop, etc., and then things start to come around. Believe it or not, just lately I have started becoming comfortable around clears. I can't tell you exactly what settings I use, and so on. All I do is fill it up and squirt in on a bucket or something and tweak the controls until it "feels right." Earlier I felt like I was taking a big chance each time, but now I think I've got a basic grip on squirting clear.

Like I tell my young sons when they are trying to learn something new, "There's 3 things you must do to get good at this...practice, practice and practice."

Good luck,

Andy aka Big Stinkie

 

[Gunner]

Perfect response, Andy. Thanks.

Basically, I was looking for reassurance that the Finishline II HVLP I was looking at and the dual action airbrush I have are going to serve me well when I get ready to do my bike.

The interesting part for me: I've got a buddy with a Night Train who's already said if my bike turns out, he wants me to do his bike. He wants a skull on the side of his tank that is almost invisible unless you come up on it. To me, it sounds like white or silver pearl, highly reduced, just like the ghost HD logo Scott did.

I need to hit a junkyard and get some practice panels to work on......

DG

 

[rex]

White or thinner silver pearl will be great for that.Well,I just played with some HVLPs at PPG school and fell in love with an Iwata.First you want correct aircap pressure but if you don't want to spend serious $ on an aircap guage all you can do is play with it.Forget what the gun says for max inlet pressure because it's nothing to be low even with the large couplers and nipples.Play with shooting patterns until you can maintain a nice one and get the drops of paint as small as possible.If it wont atomize put a smaller fluid tip on it for clears or larger for base,but it seems they come set up more for base than clear.You do need to be able to supply alot of air to them so if you're using 1/4" nipples and couplers and/or a small compressor you'll never never reach full potential.If you want a really nice alternative the DeVilbiss Plus is very nice.It's not an HVLP but it is HVLP compliant in Cali. and had a transfer rate right up there with the HVLPs.I think it's a bit more expensive though.

 

[imported_sam]

REX, A MATTSON REP CLUED ME IN ON TO MAKING THE HVLP SPRAY CLEAR SO SMOOTH IT IS SCARY. USE ONE STEP WARMER TEMPERATURE REDUCERS AND ACTIVATORS THAN ACTUAL SHOP TEMPS. IT GIVES THE CLEAR A LITTLE MORE TIME TO FLOW. SAM

 

[rex]

Welcome Sam.I'll remember that if I get one for clear but I love my Plus.I bet it slides off though,I run my mixes about 5degrees slow now and change which clear I use according to the size of the work.I can go 10 degrees on some things but others will leave a flow indicator somewhere.