Brian Dee
Super Moderator
As you can see plotter blades are not created equal. The photo is not great but I think you will get the idea. The one on the right is an Oem blade from Roland. The one on the left is from Clean Cut blades. As you can see the aftermarket blade is much sturdier. My Roland normally cuts paint mask at 100-120 grams of down force with the Oem blade. These blades are what is referred to as Zecu blades. Which work fine if you’re only doing paint mask and vinyls. But cutting anything thicker is a chore. You may have to go over it twice or give up. Particularly if you want to cut your own stencils, with the 7 –10 mill mylar. I have switched to these clean-cut blades and don’t use anything else. Since they are a little thicker and do not have that stepped shoulder they give more support when in the blade holder. I had to drop the down force to half of what I originally used. I can now cut mylar stencil material and even x-ray film. With ease. Which is pretty tuff. The actual cutting blade is carbide. I don’t know how Ross sharpens these blades. But they are extremely sharp.
For what we do with plotters 6 of them will probably last 5 years. They are available for pretty well all the cutters out there. Here’s a link to where you can get them. Ross is the owner and he’ll gladly help you out. Vettra your new US cutter will take the Roland blade. Again, sorry for the so so photo.
http://www.cleancutblade.com/Home.htm
For what we do with plotters 6 of them will probably last 5 years. They are available for pretty well all the cutters out there. Here’s a link to where you can get them. Ross is the owner and he’ll gladly help you out. Vettra your new US cutter will take the Roland blade. Again, sorry for the so so photo.
http://www.cleancutblade.com/Home.htm
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