Layered Flame Jobs

[TAZ]

When doing "Layered" flame jobs (one flame job on top of the other flame job), you should always spray a clearcoat on top of the first layer once you are done. Then you will be starting "fresh" once you do the second layer. If you make an error doing the second layer, you will be able to correct the error without doing any damage to the first layer.

You can also clear the basecoat before doing flames. This way, if you make a mistake doing the flames, you will not damage the basecoat if you have to wipe off the mistake.

Use this to your own discretion. I personally like going straight from the basecoat to the flames on a "single layer" flame job (like in my How-To section), whereas, if I am doing a "layered" flame job, I will clearcoat the individual steps.
You can view a layered flame job in my samples

Another aggravation

saver!!!

Flame On!

 

[motorhead100]

I recently did a layered flame job, and noticed another good reason to clear each step. If you don't clear and sand down your paint lines on the first layer, they will most likely be noticed in the overlapping 2nd layer. I wasn't real happy with this when I realized it.

 

[TAZ]

Good point! Especially when you are working with pearls and metallics.

[ 01-06-2002: Message edited by: Scott F ]

 

[777daystar]

I'm airbrushing layered flames on an electric guitar using a stencil mask. How do I clearcoat and wetsand between coats and not have to take the stencil up. I'm also not very familiar with any paints other than Createx water-based. Is it possible to do this with good results. I've had some problems with edges, like you said, on the finished product. How do I eliminate this when I'm using water-based paints?

 

[TAZ]

If you are using pearls, you would definitely have to remove the stencil, clearcoat, wetsand, then re-apply a duplicate stencil.

If you are using a solid color, you should be allright going ahead and doing the other color without removing the stencil. You will also not need to clearcoat between coats.

You didn't mention what colors you where using. If you are using "solid" colors, you can get away with this method. It's just when you do "crossovers" with pearls is when you will see the bottom layered flame's edge, therefore it must be clearcoated and wetsanded.

 

[Big Chicken]

Water based paints don't stick to much besides t-shirts. Urethanes stick and last longer but are definately hard to use.