I was wondering if someone can just list the steps from a bare metal tank to a flamed and cleared finished paint job. I dont need the details I need the steps and then I will research each step. I know it maybe alot to ask but I need to know if I had a bare metal tank what processes to go through. Like step 1. seal tank. step to prime tank. etc. and also what tip sizes you use when you spray each step. I would really appreciate this. I am in Iraq right now and when I get home in Dec. Im going all out on my Springer. Im trying to learn and get all the parts and pieces put together before I get home. If I mess it up I will just start over so If someone could just list a complete set of steps that would be really cool. Thanks. Jason
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Steps for a newbie
- Thread starter hcomj
- Start date
Jason,
First let me introduce myself. My name is Ron, I have 40 years experience in the autobody and paint business and an ASE Master tech. This also includes bikes and just about anything that is covered in paint so, I feel like I may be able to steer you in the right direction. I don't normally post anything but, since their probably throwing lead at you then I'll help out.
This is going to take some time because everyone needs to know what kind of prior experience you have and what kind of tools do we have to work with. Tell us a little more about your past and we or I will go from there...Ron
First let me introduce myself. My name is Ron, I have 40 years experience in the autobody and paint business and an ASE Master tech. This also includes bikes and just about anything that is covered in paint so, I feel like I may be able to steer you in the right direction. I don't normally post anything but, since their probably throwing lead at you then I'll help out.
This is going to take some time because everyone needs to know what kind of prior experience you have and what kind of tools do we have to work with. Tell us a little more about your past and we or I will go from there...Ron
I am also an ASE Master tech and a Chrysler Gold level 4 tech. I have been building bikes and cars for years also. I have always steered away from paint but I want to start doing the entire car. i sprayed a hood with polyester primer with a Mac. spray gun I have but I used the wrong tip apparently because it barley came out of the gun but It did turn out really nice I thought. But I know basially nothing. I want to learn and I can find alot of small clips of info but no one ever really tells you the hole procedure with out taking some kind of class. I can research the steps or learn one at a time but I need to know the steps. I have a brand new MAC tools spray gun that I was given but I see that there are devillbiss gun sets on ebay with both 1.3 and 1.8 tips for a good price. I thought that would be a good start over the gun I have. I have a huge barn to practice and can hang plastic. I am currently in Iraq and will be home Dec 1st. So Im trying to get all the pieces together becaues I already have 2 big projects I want to start messing aroung with. One being my Springer. It is black cherry and I hate it. So I want to start to learn so I can do my own paint on it. I also am really big into Mopars and Im going to start slow and cheap and work up to awesome and worth alot of money. So that is the plan. I know around a shop very well just not paint. Thanks for you response.
Last edited:
martin3294
New member
Jason, here are the basic steps so you can research deeper into each step.
Asuming you are just using standard 2 pak paints and not candi or HOK paint.
1) If your going down to bare metal, scratch the bare tins with P80 grit.
2) Etch prime your tins, some people don't etch prime most do. Your choice.
3) Primer/filler coats, I use 3 coats of this high build primer.
4) Apply light guide coat over the primer with a matt black or similar paint,
5) Rub down guide coat to reveal the primer. When guide coat has been sanded off with no traces left then aply wax & grease remover, dust over with tac rag.
6) Apply the base colour you have chosen. 1st light coat semi dry, then 2 wet coats.
7) Apply an intercoat of clear over your base coat, 2 coats Max.
8) Sand down the shine of the intercoat so you have a matt finish.
9) Layout your flame design with a 1/8th tape. then mask over the top of the flame layout tape and entire tank or fender using either a frisket film or a transfer tape.
10) cutout the flames layout over the top of the 1/8th tape using an exacto knife with a sharp new blade or use a new razor blade to do this. careful not to cut into your base coat. DONT PRESS HARD WITH THE BLADE.
11) remove frisket film or transferr tape where you have cut out to reveal your flames design.
12) Spray your flames colour/s over the tank and fenders.
13) after paint has dried, remove rest of transfer tape and 1/8th tape.
14) knock down edges of flames if any with wet p1500 grit.
15) remove any bleed throughs also with this paper. intercoat of clear protects your paintwork so rub carefully not to go through the clear.
16) Clearcoat the whole job over with a further good 3 or 4 wet coats of clear.
17) colour sand then use rubbing compound and buff clearcoat to a high polish.
18) use a hand glaze to finish or a machine polish, dont use regular polish for at least 3 months until the clearcoat has fully cured.
These are the basic steps you will take, as far as paint goes follow the manufacturers guide lines for flash times between coats and drying times before clearcoating. As far a tip sizes go, once again depends on your gun, but a general guide will be, primer tip size, 1.8 to 2.2. the base coat between 1.2 and 1.3. clear coat 1.3 to 1.4.
Best to have 3 guns, one for primer, then one for base coat and one for clearcoat, keep these guns for these uses only and dont intermix them for best results.
Hope this is all you need and good luck with it.!!
Asuming you are just using standard 2 pak paints and not candi or HOK paint.
1) If your going down to bare metal, scratch the bare tins with P80 grit.
2) Etch prime your tins, some people don't etch prime most do. Your choice.
3) Primer/filler coats, I use 3 coats of this high build primer.
4) Apply light guide coat over the primer with a matt black or similar paint,
5) Rub down guide coat to reveal the primer. When guide coat has been sanded off with no traces left then aply wax & grease remover, dust over with tac rag.
6) Apply the base colour you have chosen. 1st light coat semi dry, then 2 wet coats.
7) Apply an intercoat of clear over your base coat, 2 coats Max.
8) Sand down the shine of the intercoat so you have a matt finish.
9) Layout your flame design with a 1/8th tape. then mask over the top of the flame layout tape and entire tank or fender using either a frisket film or a transfer tape.
10) cutout the flames layout over the top of the 1/8th tape using an exacto knife with a sharp new blade or use a new razor blade to do this. careful not to cut into your base coat. DONT PRESS HARD WITH THE BLADE.
11) remove frisket film or transferr tape where you have cut out to reveal your flames design.
12) Spray your flames colour/s over the tank and fenders.
13) after paint has dried, remove rest of transfer tape and 1/8th tape.
14) knock down edges of flames if any with wet p1500 grit.
15) remove any bleed throughs also with this paper. intercoat of clear protects your paintwork so rub carefully not to go through the clear.
16) Clearcoat the whole job over with a further good 3 or 4 wet coats of clear.
17) colour sand then use rubbing compound and buff clearcoat to a high polish.
18) use a hand glaze to finish or a machine polish, dont use regular polish for at least 3 months until the clearcoat has fully cured.
These are the basic steps you will take, as far as paint goes follow the manufacturers guide lines for flash times between coats and drying times before clearcoating. As far a tip sizes go, once again depends on your gun, but a general guide will be, primer tip size, 1.8 to 2.2. the base coat between 1.2 and 1.3. clear coat 1.3 to 1.4.
Best to have 3 guns, one for primer, then one for base coat and one for clearcoat, keep these guns for these uses only and dont intermix them for best results.
Hope this is all you need and good luck with it.!!
martin3294
New member
Your welcome
Poverty Paintjob
New member
Martin3294.......
Thats a pretty good how-to page you wrote.:bigokay: I also found it useful. You should post it in here on a beginners page or something like that. I am basically "Green" :think1: in the painting department, and that's why I joined this forum. If there was a special thread just to give tech tips for beginners, it would save alot of repeat questions and answers. I am sure alot of people come here for answers that, are like me, "In the Dark" when it comes to painting. Don't get me wrong, I know all other aspects of an automobile, from the mechanics to automotive facts and figures. Once again thanks for the cheat sheet, and I look forward to learning to laying the spray and buffing for hours to fix the fish-eyes. :sillyme:
Thats a pretty good how-to page you wrote.:bigokay: I also found it useful. You should post it in here on a beginners page or something like that. I am basically "Green" :think1: in the painting department, and that's why I joined this forum. If there was a special thread just to give tech tips for beginners, it would save alot of repeat questions and answers. I am sure alot of people come here for answers that, are like me, "In the Dark" when it comes to painting. Don't get me wrong, I know all other aspects of an automobile, from the mechanics to automotive facts and figures. Once again thanks for the cheat sheet, and I look forward to learning to laying the spray and buffing for hours to fix the fish-eyes. :sillyme:
martin3294
New member
Glad it was of help to you, this site is good for gathering good info, just have to be careful on how accurate the info is from some members. I have found good sound advice and help on here too.