Ok so I finally got my Iwata Eclipse in and have been messing around with it and have a few ?s... One is I have to pull the trigger back about half way for the paint to come out is that normal?? Second is I have seen a trick about unscrewing the tip so I can get a finer line but mine does not put out any paint when this happens, just sprays air. What am I doing wrong? Iam using hok and ppg paint the hok is reduced 1-1 the other paint i have tried I reduced the same some I reduced even more.. I am running 35 psi at the compressor. I have the airbrush hose directly pluged into the compressor so its not pressure drop so please help.
some simple airbrush ?s
- Thread starter Pasta22
- Start date
Ok in the cut outs in the side there is a knurled part that clamps the needle, try loosening that of and re-tightening it. Se if that fixes the 1/2 travel for paint problem.
There are 2 parts on the tip, you only remove the very end piece, this is the needle protector. This will allow you to get closer to your work which is what lets you get finer line, just what out for the needle.
There are 2 parts on the tip, you only remove the very end piece, this is the needle protector. This will allow you to get closer to your work which is what lets you get finer line, just what out for the needle.
I have taking out the needle many times when i clean it ect... I am only taking off the " needle protector" nothing else.. I paint hot rods classics but like I stated in another topic, I am losing alot of money because I do NOT do airbrush work. So I have a basic understanding of how it works but cant seem to figure this out. Thank you for your post I really app it.
T
TAZ
Guest
It is normal for you to pull back on the trigger for the fluid to come out.
You pull back for the fluid and push down at the same time to control the air.
Guess that's what you wanted to know?!
You pull back for the fluid and push down at the same time to control the air.
Guess that's what you wanted to know?!
Will do Brian thanks.. I dont think Iam getting my point across with this tip problem. I am removing the correct part. The "air cap" and it is NOT putting out any paint after i remove it. What is the problem if there is one at all.. Should the paint start flowing when I pull the triger back right away or is there always "play" in the brush?
T
TAZ
Guest
Sorry, yes, I was serious. Some members are new at airbrushing and have never owned a dual action airbrush, I was just under the impression that you were a newbie and have never had an airbrush before.
Kong
New member
OK, let's go through your problem. The paint goes in the paint cup, drains by gravity down into a central cavity where it is stopped by the needle acting as a progressive valve. The needle point is tapered and it fits into a tapered hole in the two-piece end cap (the rear part is called the Nozzle Cap and the very front part is called the Head Cap) so that when the needle pulls back the paint should flow through the hole. That is normal flow.
The needle isn't actually pulled back by the "Main Lever" which is the correct name for the trigger. What actually happens is the trigger pushes the Needle chucking guide back and it is that guide which clamps down on the needle by way of the Chuck clamp nut.
Now, the first thing you need to do is start at the start. Your Paint cup has a cap and right in them middle of the top there is a small pinhole that vents the cup. If no air can get into the cup no paint can get out, so the first thing you need to do is check the vent and make sure its not clogged. Just drop in L-thinner for a couple of minutes and then take as straight pin or a wood tooth pick and clean it.
Next place you could have a problem is inside the brush body; there may be an obstruction in there. Now you can soak the front half of the brush in L-thinner to clear such a clog but you have to be very very careful wen you do this to make sure you do not soak the part where the air comes in. Just submerge the brush to the cup, no deeper. The reason for that is that inside the air inlet passage there is a very small airvalve and it has a very tiny little O-ring on its top that will swell up and block air flow if it is soaked for more than a couple of hours. That's something you don't want to do.
The next two places to look are your Chucking Guide Nut. It needs to be firmly tightened by hand to grip the needle. If it is not properly tightened the chuck will move backwards when you pull the lever back, but the needle won't be pulled back and so no paint will flow - so that might be the problem.
The last thing that might be it - which is the first thing you should check - is the straightness of the needle. Just lay it on a pane of glass and roll it. A bent needle won't roll.
There - try those things and see if you can get it working.
On Edit :sillyme:: If forgot you had asked about the head cap. That front cap, the one that's properly called the "head cap" is just there to protect the very tip of the needle from contacting your work. You can unscrew it and get closer to your work, which results in a finer line, if you like. It has no functional duty associated with the actual spraying, it doesn't direct the air or paint flow in any way.
Kong
The needle isn't actually pulled back by the "Main Lever" which is the correct name for the trigger. What actually happens is the trigger pushes the Needle chucking guide back and it is that guide which clamps down on the needle by way of the Chuck clamp nut.
Now, the first thing you need to do is start at the start. Your Paint cup has a cap and right in them middle of the top there is a small pinhole that vents the cup. If no air can get into the cup no paint can get out, so the first thing you need to do is check the vent and make sure its not clogged. Just drop in L-thinner for a couple of minutes and then take as straight pin or a wood tooth pick and clean it.
Next place you could have a problem is inside the brush body; there may be an obstruction in there. Now you can soak the front half of the brush in L-thinner to clear such a clog but you have to be very very careful wen you do this to make sure you do not soak the part where the air comes in. Just submerge the brush to the cup, no deeper. The reason for that is that inside the air inlet passage there is a very small airvalve and it has a very tiny little O-ring on its top that will swell up and block air flow if it is soaked for more than a couple of hours. That's something you don't want to do.
The next two places to look are your Chucking Guide Nut. It needs to be firmly tightened by hand to grip the needle. If it is not properly tightened the chuck will move backwards when you pull the lever back, but the needle won't be pulled back and so no paint will flow - so that might be the problem.
The last thing that might be it - which is the first thing you should check - is the straightness of the needle. Just lay it on a pane of glass and roll it. A bent needle won't roll.
There - try those things and see if you can get it working.
On Edit :sillyme:: If forgot you had asked about the head cap. That front cap, the one that's properly called the "head cap" is just there to protect the very tip of the needle from contacting your work. You can unscrew it and get closer to your work, which results in a finer line, if you like. It has no functional duty associated with the actual spraying, it doesn't direct the air or paint flow in any way.
Kong
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Ok so, I have been messing around with the brush all day and finally just took the thing apart and start from scratch who know the factory could have made a mistake. Right? So I did that and thinned out the paint a little more then the 1-1 like Brian said. I switch the breaker and hope for the best at this point as it has taking me awhile to clean this thing. What do ya know it works perfect.. So thank you guys very much for all the help. The only thing that bugs me that might be normal, is when Iam doing some fine lines it gets clogged and If I point the AB to the side and pull full trigger it clears it out. So is this normal guys or something I can remedy by doing some trick of the trade?
Kong
New member
If your airbrush is spitting try a little more reduction and if you have the proper material available to you use a slower reducer; I believe, for instance, that all of the prereduced (Ready to Spray, or RTS) HOK paint that is sold uses RU311 (medium reducer) whereas RU312 or possibly even RU313 would be a better choice for air brushing. The notion here is that the spitting is caused by premature drying of a minuscule daub of paint right at the tip, that becomes plastic and then gets blown off into the atomized stream. If you can slow down the drying process you reduced the occurrence of the buildup. Of course its always a good idea to give the brush a little squirt immediately before you move to your work piece and if working on a masked design to begin spraying on tape
G
gutly
Guest
Ok so I finally got my Iwata Eclipse in and have been messing around with it and have a few ?s... One is I have to pull the trigger back about half way for the paint to come out is that normal?? Second is I have seen a trick about unscrewing the tip so I can get a finer line but mine does not put out any paint when this happens, just sprays air. What am I doing wrong? Iam using hok and ppg paint the hok is reduced 1-1 the other paint i have tried I reduced the same some I reduced even more.. I am running 35 psi at the compressor.
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Thanks nz. I've deleted the user.
Very weird type of spam. I have a feeling this is a security hole in the software, where they can copy a posts and add their own spam signature without even being on the forum (all automated). I know there is yet another update for the software that just came out last week. Maybe that version has it corrected.