Rusty tank inside

P

Pap

Guest
Hi Guys,
well---another newbie shows his face !! I'll make this short.Found a near perfect tank for my project (My first of course). Got started and was progressing well when It came upon me to check out the inside of the tank--Well, I am sure you know the next line. Rust, a bunch, inside. How do you get the stuff out, or do I throw the near perfect thing away and look for another ?? Look forward to hearing from you. Pap.
 
A

alienboy

Guest
I think they make an acid to eat away the rust. Or maybe flush it with some gas.
 
P

Pap

Guest
Hi Scott--Thanks for the reply. Been out of town on business for a while so I am very slow getting back to the forum. The tank is a 1983 Honda Magna Tank. Blasted the tank and found a few areas of rust break through so that casts lots o doubts about the useability of this tank. May have to use it for practice, but a good replacement is diffd. to find. What do you think ??
 
F

flamethrower

New member
Hey Pap,
I am a dealer for POR-15 products and they make a "Fuel Tank Repair Kit" that will suit you to a tee! The standard motorcycle tank kit is $32.50 and comes with the following:
1. Marine Clean - to remove gum, sludge, and varnish.
2. Metal Ready - to remove rust & prepare tank for sealer.
3. U.S. Standard Tank Sealer - to permanently seal tank.
4. Detailed Instructions

If you have tried to seal the tank with someone elses product and failed, then you can buy the Heavy Duty Motorcycle Fuel Tank kit for $38.00 which has the above, plus the following:
1. Power Mesh - Reinforcing fabric for sealing large holes or reinforcing weak areas.
2. POR Strip - to remove the failed inferior coating from before.


This kit works better than any other tank sealer on the planet if you follow the directions to the letter.

Try it. You'll like it.

Later /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eekout.gif
 
P

Pap

Guest
Hay Flamethrower,
Man---sounds like good stuff !! I supose that the power mesh is used to cover breakouts and thin areas of the tank wall caused by rust ?? In the case of my tank, two of those areas are on the side of the tank and are visible from the side of the bike. How do you make them go away when it is time to paint sfter the repairs. Bondo and glaze over ??? How large a weak area can you cover and be safe ?? Look forward to hearing from you. Sounds like a possible answer to my problem. Thanks for the help !! If it looks like it will work for me, I'll email you about purchase.
Pap
 
F

flamethrower

New member
The key is to follow the directions. But in a nutshell, you use the Power Mesh to repair the holes/weakspots on the outside. It is very thin, and you can use POR-15 to harden it and make it permanent. When that's all cured, then use the other products on the inside to completely seal the tank. It will take about 72-96 hours to completely cure on the inside. Then use body filler (preferrably POR-15 StraightLine filler) to feather out what little edge you have with the mesh on the outside. Then prepare it normally and paint it. Go to www.por15.com/ and read up on it. I'd be happy to sell you the stuff, but if you don't live close to WA, it might be cheaper to find a local dealer. There is a link on their website for finding a local store.

Let me know if I can be of more help. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bigokay.gif
 
R

Ripp

Guest
muratic acid and some nuts and bolts to clean the inside of rusty tanks. About a cupfull of acid and 15- 20 small nuts inside the tank Shake it very well...Then buy a kreme kit and follow the instructions... works very well
 
T

TAZ

Guest
You can also order the POR online. I buy more of the small type quantities...seems once you open the can and air gets to it, it hardens or the cap seals itself to the can.
 
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