Pearl paste v/s Pearl paint????

[Jim]

What's the pupose of pearl paste?I've mix it in the clear and looks great,almost like flake but...It sucks for flames,you get such high build on the tape edge.I should of just bought some pearl paint for flames.
If anyone is going to use it,this process has worked the best so far.Tape and spray your flames,let dry over night,sand only the edges of the flames only to knock em down close not smooth(otherwise you'll bust thru the pearl)clear again and put two or three more coats,wet sand and buff.
I'm just wondering how close i'm getting to being too thick.Although I probably sand 1/2 of it off each time.
Rex or EZ told me "pearl goes along way over black."After messing it up a couple times,I now know what they meant,Only mix very little in the clear and spray very lightly,It gets lighter the more you put in and the more coats you put on!!!!!!!!

 

[TAZ]

I personally just use pearl toner. I use PPG global. I usually mix it 50-50 with 895 (which is basically a clear basecoat, then I mix it 50 50 with reducer).
You can spray a couple of coats for your flames or you can air brush the edges to give it a real ghost effect. Go easy! Make sure you don't put too much on. I suggest doing a test panel.
It is also good doing it this way because their is hardly any buildup. A few coats of PPG D894 clear and you have no flame edge.
I just did these parts yesterday.
I will be putting up better pics later in the PM

I will be doing a "Tangelo" flame job soon (over black) that I will use the airbrush to do some "gold" pearl highlights.

 

[Jim]

Better pics?Can that job really get any better?
You must be reading this board alot,even you've gotten better since I first joined.LOL
Beautiful job Scott!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[ezrider]

insted of mixing pearls in clear coat , try mixing the pearl in an inter coat clear, (a base coat with out any pigments )there is far less build and you can move on to your next stages in minutes not over night

 

[TAZ]

Thanks Jim!!
Yes, I would be lying if I said I didn't learn a thing or two off my own board.
Lot's of great info and advice being offered here

Also helps when you do this stuff full time instead of trying to squeeze jobs in on the side

Scott!

PS- I did get some better pics of the pearl job. Looks great out in the sun!!!!

 

[Jim]

Hey EZ,Are you talking about HOK's SG-100?

Scott,I guess you can get better pics!After doing my garage job and sanding off a layer of dust,and whatever else flew in it.I think spending the time to build a booth will be included in my next job.How many coats of clear do you use?Are the clear coats differant,I mean is there a differace in the amount of gloss you can get from brand to brand?
also,Is PPG any better than HOK or are you just used to spraying it?I think with PPG,the mix is 4/1/1 HOK is 2/1/1.I think I pd $23 for the clear,$28 for activator,$13 for reducer.That's around $64 a quart.If PPG goes further and is cheaper and results are the same no wonder more people go with PPG.If you have some time,I'd like to hear yours and other painters input on this!!!!

 

[TAZ]

Jim,
Actually I use both the HOK and the PPG clears. I use the HOK if I know I will need to resand and reclear the parts. I use this because the clear dries *very* quick.
Then I use PPG D894 clear as my final. This stuff dries slow and has great buildup (Hi solids clear).
If you use the D894, be very cautious, it's really made to do overall paint jobs, so it can slide on you very easily. I usually use fast reducer for this. It buffs out excellent to. If you have to buff the HOK clear, you'd be better off buffing your garage floor.

I know there are other HOK clears, but haven't used them.

I like the HOK price though. It's about $45 less a gallon.