need advice HOK

acmechris

New member
So I laid out some flames on a new PT Cruser (factory paint) Skuffed, pearled and flaked with HOK intercoat clear and then top coated with Omni MC161. I did the whole job in a timley fasion. I am having adhesion problems months later with the top coat clear. I have repaired it several times. When I reskuff the HOK of course I break through the flake (making purple silver). Does anyone know of a trick to put some bite in the HOK intercoat to make my clear stick. Looking back my mistake was assuming that HOK intercoat clear would be user friendly as a production product. Thanks, Chris
 
T

TAZ

Guest
Chris,

Sounds like you only cleared the flames?

If so, you should have scuffed the complete panel you are doing flames on, THEN laid out the flames. Once you do the flames, remove the masking tape, then clear the complete front end.

Not for sure if I read your post right though...
 

acmechris

New member
yeah

Yes I only cleared the flames (quick and dirty). However; I am having no problem with the HOK intercoat (flake carier) sticking, just the OMNI to HOK. It would appear that the chemists at HOK have figured out away to insure the use of their product Through out. Again, I assumed that "intercoat" was generic to production, meening that it would be compatable with other systems, ie, repair work. I am going to try topcoating the exposed HOK intercoat clear with DBC 500 (PPG intercoat clear) before I clear with the OMNI. This would not be the first time that HOK has dissipointed me, (add their price and it is like a twist of the knife). Thank you for your time. Chris
 

Milkman

New member
You can try sanding the Sg100 before clearing again, of course you would need to add more SG100 of your flaked mixture in order to sand it. And I would scuff the entire panel, and reclear so that your edges are locked down. I have used dupont nason clear over HOK on test panels, and had no problems but never used PPG in that case.
 
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