My 2001 Tahoe Scuff and Paint Job

weinerschizel

New member
I'm a newbie. Spent last 6 months scuffing and prepping my 2001 Tahoe for paint. I had figured would be a 1 month and done job but here I am going on 7 months of work :( The truck is fully disassembled and prepped for paint. I've guide coated it with 320 grit. Then went back over it all with a 400 grit to smooth it all out.

Last month I started practicing with the doors. It was an absolute disaster. I don't know how to spray. I can spray really well with rattle cans but I find spray guns impossible. I've watched countless hours of Youtube on how to setup the gun. I have spoke with body guys on how to setup the gun. I still get horrible finishes on my work. I've only made it as far as Epoxy sealer (reduced primer). Let alone to the color and clear.

The picture below is me attempting to spray epoxy sealer on my gas cap door. It got a bunch of fish eyes and a wavy texture (no orange peal this time though). Previous attempt had horrible orange peal. There are so many variables with this. I'm really struggling. I have put the word out there to see if any body shop guys would like an after work freelance job to help me get it painted. I've had 3 people say sure, but nobody ever shows up :(

I'm not even really sure where to start with my questions. I'm using OMNI products MP172 epoxy, basecoat, and metalux clear. I've not made it past the sealer / epoxy. It messes up every time I spray.
 

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TAZ

Administrator
You definitely want to get some practice in before you shoot your Tahoe.

Here is what I would suggest. Go to some bodyshop and see if they have some scrap metal like fenders, doors, even bumpers
Bring those home and practice on them first.
Also, when you practice like on fenders and doors, don't just lay them down flat. That makes it easier than in the real world
Sit them either at a 45 which will help or straight up. Once you start to get the hang of it you can move onto your Tahoe
Do the roof FIRST. Do not do anything else.
This will also help you out. That will get a big chunk out of the way
Then you can mask it of when you do the rest.
It would even help if you remove the hood and paint that next.
Then all you have is the sides and the hatch
I set my gun full open on both the fluid and the fan
I just use my thumb to stop the trigger...of course I have many years under my belt

I hold the gun about 4-5" away from the surface and make nice consistent passes
Overlap about 40%

Hope that gives you some ideas to go by

Practice, practice practice
 

weinerschizel

New member
Awesome, thank you for your help! I really appreciate it. Your advice is very helpful. I have been practicing on some scrap metal in my backyard... I should have also specified, the truck is disassembled. I think partly I get nervous when I move to a real part of the truck lol It seems when it's not important the finish comes out PERFECT lol Like spots I painted on the frame, my wheel barrel, and scrap metal :/

Yesterday I messed up my epoxy sealer when spraying gas door and door handles. I didn't allow enough flash time and had too much pressure on the gun according to body shop who looked at my parts. The body shop told me how to fix it. He said wet sand with 800 grit. It worked like a champ :)

I decided to graduate to a door since I have a method to fix mistakes. Door jam side turned out great. I notice inconsistencies in the door skin though... I Photoshoped photo below to bring out contrast / inconsistencies. Other parts had near perfect consistency in the finish. I did two coats, medium wet. Gun was on full tilt, full fan as you mentioned (other guys gave same advice). I also set regulator to 30 PSI per gun specs.

I'm not sure where I went wrong on door skin (or if it's okay). Perhaps I need a 3rd wet coat (picture below)?

Note: bottom of door skin get's a truck bed liner so I'm not painting that.
 

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TAZ

Administrator
Good picture but really hard to tell without seeing in person.
If I had to guess, I would say the top of the door appears to be a sag
The left portion appears to be possibly where you stopped the gun while making a pass and it built.
The bottom right might be where you had some rough bodywork and it's just showing through the primer
Again, I could tell in person, but these are just guesses looking at the pictures
 

weinerschizel

New member
Thanks :) That is very helpful. I just finished sealing the whole project (minus my practice parts which are done).

I think seal went on okay. I believe I didnt put enough sealer last time to hide my body work underneath? This time I fist cut in the edges on the parts and went over spots where I did most body work. Then I did two coats over all that. Now sealer looks nice flat and even.

I got a few defects though so will wet sand those today and hopefully have time to do my color and clear. I am learning tons doing this. I keep callong paint store for tips lol
 

weinerschizel

New member
I sprayed up the Truck body, the hood, and one of the doors today. I'm only short one door. I had two issues...

1. Lighting in my garage his HORRIBLE. I put on a headlamp, put out a work light but wasn't enough. There are 3 (rear hatch, front passenger fender, and front passenger door).areas with MASSIVE runs in the color coat. I assume that's a TREMENDOUS amount of work to fix up when color sanding but fixable?

2. Hood turned out AWESOME. However, I'm wondering if I put on a TAD too thick. There's a picture with me focused on surface of hood. There's little pits across the hood.
 

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