Learning the final stages

Vettra

New member
I am posting this in the general section as it is in no way custom related. I have had a problem with the clear coating stage of my projects in the past. That being excessive orange peel. I have finally overcome that with my last project. The image shows a side bag from a '99 Honda Valkerie.

The customer dropped the bike and put a crack in the bag. I repaired it and did a full repaint. (bag only- not the lid.)

What I can pass on to painters with less experience than myself is this:
1. If you do get orange peel, don't panic. As long as you have a good amount of clear laid down (3 good coats) you can wet sand and remove all texture.
2. Unless you have a really thick/even clear coat, and have a very fine touch, I wouldn't start with a paper less than 1500 grit. On 2 occasions I started with an 800 grit and soon found myself in the base coat.
3. Don't skimp on the quality of your compound and final glaze. You will be amazed at the difference quality products make in the final.

These are just things I have learned. If you long time pros see an error in anything in this post- please let me know.

gene 1.jpg
 
Last edited:
T

TAZ

Guest
From what I see in the pics, yes, it does look pretty good!!!

You may want to try reducing the clear a tad bit more (hard to get orange peel if the clear is 'thin'). and turn up your air a bit (about 50-55lbs) and on your first coat, don't do a tack coat, lay on a medium to wet coat. This makes the rest of the coats flow into the first coat nicer.
I've spray 2 coat clears where you have to spray the first coat on wet (almost to the point to where it looks 'done). Then the second will flow into the first. Then you're done
:freak:

Good work though!
 

Maylar

New member
It's all a pile of compromises. You want the paint wet enough to flow but not so wet that it runs. Temperature, reducer and hardener speeds, gun atomization, spray technique, fan width.. they all play together. Only experience can teach these things.

One tip I can offer is that the last coat of clear I spray is reduced 50/50 and sprayed wet. That helps fill in the orange peel a bit. And you need to look carefully at your second coat to decide how to spray the third.
 

Vettra

New member
Before I found this forum- I was on another.Even though I achieved my best success using a reducer with my clear some of the experts ripped on me for even suggesting it. This guy was quoting specs for the manufacturer and said I should not very from what the specs called for.
 
T

TAZ

Guest
That brings up a good point... really depends on what clear you use. There are a few clears that do not require any reducer. Very few of them are like this.
You would only add a tad bit more reducer IF the original ratio called for reducer to start with. If it does not, require reducer, then don't add any.

Keep in mind to, like the cold weather we are having right now, really thickens, clearcoats and urethanes. So I would recommend adding a little more reducer to thin it out more than normal.
OR, a few hours before, put it in a warm room. But even with this, you are spraying warm, regular paint on a cool surface, so you have to be careful with this.

:cheers:
 

tman

New member
I have a question guy's, The clear I have been using for 4-5 years is a dupont clear. It is a 2 part, activator and clear. What reducer are ya'll using? Or what brand has a reducer plus clear and activator? just curious, because sometimes I wich I could reduce mine.
 
T

TAZ

Guest
I have a question guy's, The clear I have been using for 4-5 years is a dupont clear. It is a 2 part, activator and clear. What reducer are ya'll using? Or what brand has a reducer plus clear and activator? just curious, because sometimes I wich I could reduce mine.

We use House of Kolors which calls for a reducer. They have the different grades of reducer (fast, medium, slow)
:goodbye:
 

Maylar

New member
I use BASF products (Glasurit and R-M) and they use reducer in their clears. There are generic "urethane" reducers that some people use but I would definitely check with the DuPont shop before adding something to the mix.
 

Vettra

New member
I've spray 2 coat clears where you have to spray the first coat on wet (almost to the point to where it looks 'done). Then the second will flow into the first. Then you're done
:freak:

QUOTE]

Taz- I was reviewing an older post on clearcoat. You referenced not doing a tack coat by making the first of the 2 coats "wet". When is it preferable to do this technique over using a tack coat?
 
T

TAZ

Guest
Taz- I was reviewing an older post on clearcoat. You referenced not doing a tack coat by making the first of the 2 coats "wet". When is it preferable to do this technique over using a tack coat?

If it's a "hi-solids clear" you are only supposed to put on 2 coats. So both need to be wet.
 

mituan

New member
Thanks Taz, What I would like to know is the paint like the HOK the right stuff to use or is there something else a beginner airbrush artist should use...
 

slickpaint

New member
After you have it flat with the 1500, pick up a soft 3M Triazcut wet pad that fits your da sander. I use 5 inch, after you smooth out the 1500 scratches ... final buffing is a breeze.
 
Top