Iwata Eclipse or Hi-Line???
- Thread starter Selby1589
- Start date
B
BigG
Guest
I have an Iwata eclipse cs its a great gun but the best one is the custom micron
D
dabien310
Guest
What's the downside of getting an eclipse versus a better one like the micron?
Jon
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Jon
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I always have to crack up laughing when the discussion of which Iwata is better. They are all the best!
Seriously, it's what medium (paints) you're working with and what level of complexity you believe you’ll get to in your airbrush work.
The Eclipse series can do about anything you want it to, once you get familiar with that airbrush line. In my opinion they are the best all around airbrush for automotive painting, because the can handle the viscosity of auto paints without over reducing the paint too much. The Hi-Line series is great for details and mural work, but clogs easier with courser metallic paints and some pearls. If you’re spraying finer details in solid colors and reduce it a bit more, then The Hi-Line series does an outstanding job.
Now for Microns, I fell into that trap of Microns being the best. They are incredible brushes, but the most expensive out there. They can spray really fine lines, but you must decided if you need that extreme level or not. They can clog easily and maintenance on them is a bit more involved than the other Iwata airbrushes. I’ve sent my Micron B in twice to Coast Airbrush for service and a thorough cleaning to get it working properly again. I have a need for my Micron and think it does a great job, but for most out there, they really only need a Hi-Line, or Ecplise airbrush at a much lower price.
One other thing, you can achieve nearly anything with an $100 airbrush with the use of other tools (freehand shields, tape, paint mask and thousands of other objects) that make it look like you used a super high quality, mega expensive airbrush.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/sunglass.gif
Seriously, it's what medium (paints) you're working with and what level of complexity you believe you’ll get to in your airbrush work.
The Eclipse series can do about anything you want it to, once you get familiar with that airbrush line. In my opinion they are the best all around airbrush for automotive painting, because the can handle the viscosity of auto paints without over reducing the paint too much. The Hi-Line series is great for details and mural work, but clogs easier with courser metallic paints and some pearls. If you’re spraying finer details in solid colors and reduce it a bit more, then The Hi-Line series does an outstanding job.
Now for Microns, I fell into that trap of Microns being the best. They are incredible brushes, but the most expensive out there. They can spray really fine lines, but you must decided if you need that extreme level or not. They can clog easily and maintenance on them is a bit more involved than the other Iwata airbrushes. I’ve sent my Micron B in twice to Coast Airbrush for service and a thorough cleaning to get it working properly again. I have a need for my Micron and think it does a great job, but for most out there, they really only need a Hi-Line, or Ecplise airbrush at a much lower price.
One other thing, you can achieve nearly anything with an $100 airbrush with the use of other tools (freehand shields, tape, paint mask and thousands of other objects) that make it look like you used a super high quality, mega expensive airbrush.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/sunglass.gif
D
dabien310
Guest
Thanks for the input on the diff brushes. Would you say that Paasche's are comparabel to the Iwata's?
They seem to be a bit cheaper.
Jon
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beat.gif
They seem to be a bit cheaper.
Jon
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beat.gif
I started airbrushing with a Paasche & it was alright for standard airbrush applications. I used them mainly in some Tech course I took years ago and sprayed on paper with acrylics with the Paasche. A couple years ago I decided to get into custom bike painting and use my art skills to create bike murals. I tried with my Paasche and wasn't real thrilled with it. I got a basic Iwata Eclipse and instantly saw a performance difference in my opinion. I like the way Iwata's spray, feel in your hand and control a lot better than any other brand out there that I've used. To me Iwata's were from a little bit more $$$ to a lot more money, but you get what you pay for. I have 6 or so Iwata's and love 'em all (I want MORE!).
The Iwata Eclipse CS (top feed cup) is one of my favs and you can always use 2-3 of them around the shop.
There are some successful auto airbrushers out there that swear by Paashes and make a living using them. Just my initial experience with them wasn't that great and I found what I was looking for in Iwata's.
Happy airbrush hunting! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
The Iwata Eclipse CS (top feed cup) is one of my favs and you can always use 2-3 of them around the shop.
There are some successful auto airbrushers out there that swear by Paashes and make a living using them. Just my initial experience with them wasn't that great and I found what I was looking for in Iwata's.
Happy airbrush hunting! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
M
mojoz
Guest
I have to agree with BornHard on that 1 as I started with a badger single action then got paschevs & was ready to quit as I could not get the results I was looking for after setting the brush down i started & said what the hell got an IWATA man I couldnt believe the differance the learning curve alone is worth the money IMO I got the HP-C Pro series & shortly after got a hi perfomance with (MAC) on it love them both so much Turned my SATA into a primer gun after getting LPH400LV for clear & the 300 for color they atomize like no other IMO MoJoz
I have several Iwatas, Eclipse, HP-C, Custom Micron C, etc. etc. I always work with the caps off so I can clean the needle tip readily. But this can cause damage to the needle tip if you're not careful. I dropped the brush and the rear handle part was removed also. The gun fell right on the back of the needle driving the tip right thru the fluid nozzle .... idioit! LOL anyway, I had to buy a new fluid nozzle and needle but this time I bought the .2mm fluid nozzle. For short money I turned it into another fine line brush that is almost as good as my Micron C.
The HP-C is no longer available but I would think the HP-CP with a .2mm tip and nozzle would be just as good.
Good luck,
Phil
The HP-C is no longer available but I would think the HP-CP with a .2mm tip and nozzle would be just as good.
Good luck,
Phil
I just got into airbrushing about three months ago and really enjoy it. Stated off with a Badger 150 then picked up a used Iwata HPC , but can't quite get the detail I want, so I just orderd a Hi Line from Coast and can't wait to get my hands on it. I've found that I have to wipe the needle tip every time I shoot any fine lines to get the trigger to release the paint at the same point each time. I suppose the paint dries fast on the tip and requires constant cleaning............Mo
hoss
New member
mowe,
something that helped me w that problem was, when you release the paint part of the lever don't release the air. the extra air will help blow off the tip a little.
also, use slow reducer.
I like to stick my air brush nose in cleaning fluid and turn it on. it blows bubbles and gets it real clean, or keep a little brush around to dip in the cleaning fluid and rub it in the tip every once in awhile.
these are some tips i learned from this forum, and you might already know about em.
something that helped me w that problem was, when you release the paint part of the lever don't release the air. the extra air will help blow off the tip a little.
also, use slow reducer.
I like to stick my air brush nose in cleaning fluid and turn it on. it blows bubbles and gets it real clean, or keep a little brush around to dip in the cleaning fluid and rub it in the tip every once in awhile.
these are some tips i learned from this forum, and you might already know about em.
Thanks Hoss I'll most definitly give it a try. The new Hi Line came in today and I'm playing with it tonight. It sure cut's a finer line than the HP-C and the air valve on the brush give it a lot of control, but like the HP-C, requires constant cleaning. Within 10 seconds of not using it, the tip has to be wiped off, so I hope your advise works. Thanks again.........Mo