How to reduce orange peel & craters

[Jim]

I learned a couple of years ago that useing med. ruducer gives my clear more flowout time thus reducing orange peel.I use to clear at 70 degrees,now in winter,I went down to 65 and get even better results still useing a med reducer.After a few minutes of flowout,I'll bump the heat back up to 70.First coat is a thin one.after it's done stringing,I'll lay 2 nice flowcoats.
By putting down a thin coat first,I have eliminated just about all craters too!You may get a run or two in the beginning but,it's well worth it after a few trys!Hope this helps!

 

[hoss]

good tip! it's a bit hard for people w/o heater though

 

[IwataDanny]

USUALLY WHEN ITS COLD AND YOU LAY FLOW COATS YOU GET SOME SAGS OR RUNS WHICH IS BAD BUT USUALLY WHEN ITS 70 DEGREES ON UP to prevent orange peel you might be spraying the clear coat a little too far and are using a gun that is too big a nozzle....if you want a nice flow coat spray your 2 coats of clear then the 3rd reduce and extra 25-50% and your finsh should appear somewhat like glass for a show car finish

 

[PAINTNPLACE]

I've always used my air pressure turned up at a constant-no variations-with a 1.4 or 1.5 nozzle head, depending on the gun used,to atomize my clear. I adjust my clear components with the temp in the booth. you must brake down the clear before it hits the tin to keep from having the puddling effect coming into play. It's always worked for me. good luck

 

[stonie]

for people without heaters!!!! a trick i have used to good sucess is heating your mixed clear before painting, it tends to flow a lot better and doesnt seem to sag as easily..:bigokay: