Once I clear the part I'm painting and it has dried the proper amount of time I start colorsanding. I start out with 1000 grit then go to 1500. Here's the Question. How do I know the differnace in what I sanded at 1000 and 1500? I know that after sanding with 1000 I'll have a grey haze over the part, but how do I know I've sanded enough with 1500 to move to 2000. What should I be looking for :think1: ?? I'm new at this and trying to get all my ducks in a row before I attempt anything so bear with me.
Color Sanding ?
- Thread starter fordor
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T
TAZ
Guest
Well, good question...you really don't know. You just basically have to guess. Just pay attention when you are sanding and be sure and go over the complete area with the finer sandpaper.
I can tell you that it shouldn't take as much as the previous paper. I would say the 1000 should be done the most, then go over with the 1500 and the 2000 both about the same, but less than you did with the 1000 grit.
I can tell you that it shouldn't take as much as the previous paper. I would say the 1000 should be done the most, then go over with the 1500 and the 2000 both about the same, but less than you did with the 1000 grit.
gtc73
New member
Just another rookies thoughts;
You might consider keeping a simple note sheet with your piece to keep track of which grit you are using or finished with last. Also not sure but the finer the grit, the smoother the surface will be? seems to me for example 800 grit leaves a much more course series of scratches. As you move up in grit, that surface will look/feel smoother and smoother. I imagine at some point specialy when you get to say 1500 or 2000 it may be impossible to tell. So even more important to keep a note pad handy?
I'm about to embark on the same journey on my cleared tins so lets see how this all works out!
good luck!
You might consider keeping a simple note sheet with your piece to keep track of which grit you are using or finished with last. Also not sure but the finer the grit, the smoother the surface will be? seems to me for example 800 grit leaves a much more course series of scratches. As you move up in grit, that surface will look/feel smoother and smoother. I imagine at some point specialy when you get to say 1500 or 2000 it may be impossible to tell. So even more important to keep a note pad handy?
I'm about to embark on the same journey on my cleared tins so lets see how this all works out!
good luck!
gtc73
New member
10-4 hoss!
I agree. Being new to painting, I'm just following along what I have heard from the pros....I guess!? i had asked the same question. I always thought that the base color got sanded when I heard it called color sanding.
Speaking of which, I need some higher grit paper. Seems the 1500 (which is the highest I have on hand) has me working a bit harder than I hoped. Have to buff a bit longer with the final cut!...but the tins are lookin pretty decent!...I love Wizards products!
g
I agree. Being new to painting, I'm just following along what I have heard from the pros....I guess!? i had asked the same question. I always thought that the base color got sanded when I heard it called color sanding.
Speaking of which, I need some higher grit paper. Seems the 1500 (which is the highest I have on hand) has me working a bit harder than I hoped. Have to buff a bit longer with the final cut!...but the tins are lookin pretty decent!...I love Wizards products!
g
T
TAZ
Guest
I agree...
To be honest, when I wetsand a set of tins, I only use 1500 and that's it.
The main thing to remember here is that we slick 'em out pretty decent and pound the buffer to it. I get the surface very hot to the touch.
So if you have quite a bit of peel, I would start with 1200-1500 and if you are a little shy of buffing, end with 2000 grit to make the buffing part a little easier.
I've always just called the sanding part before buffing 'wetsanding'...just my own terminology though
:bigokay:
Ditto. I guess it depends on your buffing capabilities. I use Presta compounds, and the first level will take out 1500 grit scratch so there's no need for me to go finer than that. However I know painters who insist on ending with 2500 grit, so it's a personal preference too.
Be aware that urethane clears get harder by the hour after painting. There's an ideal window of time, usually 12-16 hrs after painting, when the paint is hard enough to sand out orange peel but still soft enough that you don't need a lot of effort. This window depends on the paint you use, but after 36 hrs most urethanes are fully cured and a biatch to sand.
I painted my car with Glasurit 155 clear and made the mistake of waiting a week to sand it. It was like sanding granite, I went thru 50 discs of 1500 finishing film on my DA. Polished out like glass tho.
And I think the term 'color sanding' is to differentiate from primer sanding. It applies to single stage paints as well as BCC.
gtc73
New member
eeek, 12-16 hours....
Well I can say this much. Last years paint job was a total ***** to buff cause I waited WWWAAAAAAaaaaayyyyy too long, like months I believe. Course I am learning as I go here too. This years clear went on much better. Practice and research, watching the pros online has helped dramaticaly. However I didn't get to buffin till about 48 hours after the final clears. I must admit, it has been working out much better then last year! the turbo cut and final cut are doing a sweet job!....
g
Well I can say this much. Last years paint job was a total ***** to buff cause I waited WWWAAAAAAaaaaayyyyy too long, like months I believe. Course I am learning as I go here too. This years clear went on much better. Practice and research, watching the pros online has helped dramaticaly. However I didn't get to buffin till about 48 hours after the final clears. I must admit, it has been working out much better then last year! the turbo cut and final cut are doing a sweet job!....
g