buffing sequence?
- Thread starter Mulepick
- Start date
hoss
New member
after sanding w/ 1500 sand it again w/ 2000 grit. why? b/c it's easier and faster to sand than to buff.
I use wizard products. it is the only thing i'll use, because it is the only thing i've used that doesn't scare me. If i've just spent hours painting. i don't want to burn through b/c my compound is a pain in the a$$. if your paint is older and cured for a very long time you would want to start w/ some turbo cut compound and the more abrasive pad. there is also a black pad that i use w/ my finishing glaze. super smooth
www.wizardproducts.com
get a velcro pad for your buffer. 3m has them as well as wizard.
if your paint is fresh. just cleared the day before or so. get the yellow foam pad and finish cut compound. then get some master shine for the final hand glaze. that's all you need. you really don't even need the master shine.
why i like this compound. i can get a first cl*** paint job and use the lowest speed setting on my buffer, and it takes minimal rubbing to get the finish.
I use wizard products. it is the only thing i'll use, because it is the only thing i've used that doesn't scare me. If i've just spent hours painting. i don't want to burn through b/c my compound is a pain in the a$$. if your paint is older and cured for a very long time you would want to start w/ some turbo cut compound and the more abrasive pad. there is also a black pad that i use w/ my finishing glaze. super smooth
www.wizardproducts.com
get a velcro pad for your buffer. 3m has them as well as wizard.
if your paint is fresh. just cleared the day before or so. get the yellow foam pad and finish cut compound. then get some master shine for the final hand glaze. that's all you need. you really don't even need the master shine.
why i like this compound. i can get a first cl*** paint job and use the lowest speed setting on my buffer, and it takes minimal rubbing to get the finish.
T
TAZ
Guest
We use 5725 and 5723 velcro pads from 3M.
We also use 6060 (medium coarse), 5936 (course), and 5669 (foam glaze)
We also wetsand with 2000 grit first.
:cheers:
We also use 6060 (medium coarse), 5936 (course), and 5669 (foam glaze)
We also wetsand with 2000 grit first.
:cheers:
Well, after finally getting a few good coats of clear down, I've finished the color sanding and have started buffing.
I got some wizard stuff and started with the hard maroon pad. I left this quickly for the yellow foam pad as the maroon seemed to tough. I can get pretty good results with the yellow pad then a polishing compound with a softer sponge on my DA.
My question is: How does one tell which scratches need more rough or more smooth compound (or sandpaper)? I'm seeing shine but also some fog and some scratches. No swirl marks though. I hate to go back and hit w/2000 only to find out this roughed things up more.
Tks,
Bob
I got some wizard stuff and started with the hard maroon pad. I left this quickly for the yellow foam pad as the maroon seemed to tough. I can get pretty good results with the yellow pad then a polishing compound with a softer sponge on my DA.
My question is: How does one tell which scratches need more rough or more smooth compound (or sandpaper)? I'm seeing shine but also some fog and some scratches. No swirl marks though. I hate to go back and hit w/2000 only to find out this roughed things up more.
Tks,
Bob
hoss
New member
the scratches are from your earlier sand paper making grooves and the dull spots are from it not being buffed out enough. buffing takes awhile. just keep at it.
i'd go back w/ the 2000 on those grooves and make it smooth. be carefule that your sand paper edges don't cut up the clear. try to keep it to the center of your paper.
i'd go back w/ the 2000 on those grooves and make it smooth. be carefule that your sand paper edges don't cut up the clear. try to keep it to the center of your paper.
paintinheli
New member
hoss is right wizard is the way to go i also use 1500/2000 and then 3m also makes a trizact system and i use the 3000 grit pad wet which gets most of the other scratches out first before buffing
It took me a long time to figure out that I wasn't putting enough effort into my compound. I use 2000 grit unless I have to cut down graphics, or any dust. Then go with the trizact 3000 (a real lifesaver on black). 3m compound the new system, and their polish by machine. For extra tough spots I use a black waffle pad 3" on a 45 degree die grinder. Its dangerous, but I run about 65psi to it, and move it around a lot. I was messing up a lot of panels buffing before, I figured out what clear gun works best for me. I'm very heavy with the clear, and a non hvlp now gives me a finish that I can almost leave it as is.
EmpireDrums
New member
yikes!...
what is the best buffer to get? i have a black and decker. would i need a da buffer or just a good one like a dewalt? or is the b&d good enough? it has 2 speeds...low and hi. i dont know the rpms.
ive been told to use the waffle pads with 3m perfct it series...any good? the wizard seems easy to use. im still new to this haha. thanks guys!!!
~Jason
(516)
what is the best buffer to get? i have a black and decker. would i need a da buffer or just a good one like a dewalt? or is the b&d good enough? it has 2 speeds...low and hi. i dont know the rpms.
ive been told to use the waffle pads with 3m perfct it series...any good? the wizard seems easy to use. im still new to this haha. thanks guys!!!
~Jason
(516)
I'm a first time painter, and am currently painting my motorcycle.
I used the advice of some of the others and purchased a Mikita buffer, thats variable speed.
I also went with the wizard products.
I bought the yellow foam pad, finish cut and master shine compounds. I started by wet sanding the clear with 2000 grit, then the yellow pad with finish cut. Then I used the master shine with a pad like you would normally use to apply wax with.
I still was not happy with the finish. The master shine didn't seem to cover some smudging (for lack of a better word) that seemed to be left over from the finish cut.
So I ordered the white foam pad and applied the master shine with it, and it did the job I was looking for.
I'm not sure what these marks were that I was seeing after the finish cut was used. But it took the white pad with master shine to remove them. Now I'm very happy with the results. Thanks to all the great info I have found on this site and the good folks who have answered my questions along the way.
Thanks to all for your help.
I used the advice of some of the others and purchased a Mikita buffer, thats variable speed.
I also went with the wizard products.
I bought the yellow foam pad, finish cut and master shine compounds. I started by wet sanding the clear with 2000 grit, then the yellow pad with finish cut. Then I used the master shine with a pad like you would normally use to apply wax with.
I still was not happy with the finish. The master shine didn't seem to cover some smudging (for lack of a better word) that seemed to be left over from the finish cut.
So I ordered the white foam pad and applied the master shine with it, and it did the job I was looking for.
I'm not sure what these marks were that I was seeing after the finish cut was used. But it took the white pad with master shine to remove them. Now I'm very happy with the results. Thanks to all the great info I have found on this site and the good folks who have answered my questions along the way.
Thanks to all for your help.