Avoid this pitfall! Smudgy, runny flames. Aaarrgh!

B

big stinkie

Guest
Using PPG DBC and Stratoclear. Painted basecoat (metallic blue) then cleared with Stratoclear. So far, so good. Roughed up the clear, taped and sprayed flames using metallic silver. Didn't have time to clear within the 24 hour window, so next day I shot a coat of DBC500 (essentially base coat with no pigment) over them to give me another 24 hours. Within 60 seconds, the flames turned liquid and "gooed" and "ran." They just kinda spread out over the piece I was painting. It then set up like normal and I had a wonderfully smudgy set of flames.

Stumbling blocks like that don't bother me, though. Oh, I try to hide that fact by stomping my feet and tossing tools around the shop, but that is just for show. (yeah...right)

Anyway, next day took it to the paint dealer who said that the DBC500 reactivated the metallic flames, causing the metallic silver to flow again. He sold some hardener to me. (forgot the name, but it worked.) It makes the basecoat resistant to reactivation. Said metallic was more prone to this kind of problem.

Another approach is to use PPG DBU instead of DBC. DBU has hardener in the reducer already. Only downside to that is that the DBU reducer "spoils" after a while. DBC reducer does not. Could get costly if you don't use it all up in time.

In the past I've always sprayed a quick coat of clear to seal it up for later work, but for some reason I used the DBC500 this time. Hope this helps someone else avoid the same thing.

Big Stinkie
 

ezrider

New member
PPG DBU base coat user a reactive reducer. i use it on a daily bases and i have never had the reducer "spoil". but when you reduce this base coat only reduce what you need and do not dump it back with your unreduced base or it will gell making it useless.
 
B

big stinkie

Guest
Thanks for the info. I think I'll try the DBU for the next job or two and see what happens. (Hopefully...nothing!) Does DBU act essentially the same as DBC? Drying time, etc?
 
Top