Air Line Piping

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seedeucer

Guest
Here is a link to Sharpe's web site that has a piping layout for your compressor. You don't have to have all the filters in-line. The layout is just to help get out moisture. Note that it says copper or galvanized piping is recommended.

http://www.sharpe1.com/dr-pipe.htm
 

rex

New member
Good post man /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bigokay.gifMy scanner's fried so I can't do anything to post stuff I have.That second photo of the perimiter system works great if you have a big shop,it eliminates a ton of pressure drop at the other end of the shop.Our shop is about 180' long and everyone has no less than 100lbs at the wall anywhere in the shop.The refrigerant dryer is a must with this system though and they're not cheap at all.They can freeze up in cold weather too wiping out your air supply for a half hour so that part sucks.For those setting up a system the first time,on that first picture the traps really aren't in proportion to the dropline.That horizontal feed line is up high on the wall and then put a good loop in before the drop.The traps/airline fittings are generally torso high with the drainpipe extending to a foot or so off the floor.
 
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seedeucer

Guest
Rex how high do you go on the up-pipe? I was wondering because I'm going to set up something like this in one half of a small two car garage. I won't have the full 50 feet to make one run so I'll have to loop it back towards the compressor.
 

rex

New member
Just run your line like the first pic,making sure you slope it down away from the compressor and have a drain at the end.That sloped feed line doesn't have to go to the ceiling,but go up pretty high at the compressor and slope it at whatever angle you want.When it comes to a drop just go up as high as you can and pull a 180 back down.T in your outlet/trap/whatever anywhere from your chest to waist heigth and let the drop continue down to about knee heigth or so with a drain.Do this for every drop you make but remember the farthest drop will be your cleanest unfiltered air.Best place for the painting line but you also need to make sure it'll support 60lbs constant at the gun at the end of your hose.Shouldn't be a prob if you have a decent compressor.Remember to drain your compressor and all line drains often to prevent water buildup.
 

rex

New member
It's fine if you do it right.Assemble it with totally clean joints and use the primer for the glue,and twist the fitting as it goes together to spread the glue around.Also mount it well to the wall to avoid vibrations,but you need a length of flex hose from the compressor to the mounted line.
 
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seedeucer

Guest
The Doctor over at Sharpe says that PVC is not good to use because it doesn't conduct heat and that's the main purpose of having the piping in the first place. That's why he recommends using copper preferably or the galvanized. A copper piping run will conduct the heat and cause the water vapor to condensate inside the tube and run out the water drains hopefully creating less expense on new trap filters.
 

Ultra Al

New member
Jon Kosmoski reccomends 1 1/2" galvanized, which seems a bit excessive for my needs, but he's been at it a lot longer than I have.
Copper has a couple advantages that I can see. 1, it will not rust inside like galvanized will. 2, It can be sweat soldered at all joints eliminating the leakage you might eventually get from a threaded joint. Another thing its easy to cut. My .02 Al /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/luck.gif
 
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DOG

Guest
nothing works as good for condensating water from hot air than 10 feet or so of flexable pipe submerged in a 20 liter drum full of water right at the compressor
 
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