23T Bucket

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PYB

Guest
I have a steel 23T that i am starting to finish. The frame has been POR 15 with a top coat of black now I am starting on the body and I need some guidence/knowledge. My plan is to go to the metal with a striper,prep sol to clean, shoot an etch primer, shoot a coat of DP40, do what little bondo work that needs to be done, prime with a high solids primer, sand, the repete primer and sanding.Have I got this in the right order? Any help,tips, ideas will be greatly appreciated.
PYB
 

rex

New member
Yep,sounds great.A few extras I do are to sand the steel with 180 after neutralizing the stripper.Also tape off rivets and cracks so stripper can't seep in there-you'll never get it out and neutralized.The sanding is optional,but it makes me feel better.After you shoot the DP,wait at least 1 hour at 75 degrees to mud over it.I prefer to let it sit overnite and scuff the area with a red scotchbrite.I also prefer to use the fast hardner in the DP so it cures quicker.If you're using all PPG,I'd use the K36 primer.We use the NCP255 in the shop and it's a great production primer,but I still think K36 is a better primer.Just remember to put it on in thin coats and let it dry good before sanding to avoid shrinkage-forget the label time of 1 hour,let it sit overnite.Don't use the DP as a sealer too,it tends to suck up the topcoats since it stays soft so long.I've started using the NCS 2004 sealer and like it alot.It's more like a coat of paint than a porous looking sealer,and in 15 minutes you can nip out anything if need be.I still think the best sealer is a cured paintjob and this is about as close as you can get.The 2004 is grey and the 2005 is black.Oh,on the etch primer,put it on thin and no runs,don't let it get thick.Good luck and let us know how it comes out.
 
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PYB

Guest
Thanks Rex if you have any more tips or advivce it will be more that welcome this is my first major project and I know any thing can be corrected but I would like to get it right.
 

rex

New member
Anytime.You learn alot from mistakes,but this stuff is too damn expensive to make too many.A few more tidbits for you,but how much experience do you have with bodywork?I finish my bondo work in 80grit and pop and clean out any pinholes.Then I put a thin coat of 2 part putty over it,evercoat's is pretty decent,but if there's a Wurth distributor around I really like theirs.This stuff will finely pinhole if it gets too thick,so stay at 1/8" or less and work it back and forth.Be warned though,use little hardner in it cause this stuff kicks off fast in any kind of heat and/or humidity,and let it set awhile to get real hard.I then knock the top off with 80 and finish with 120-180,180 being the better.Going back to hardner,don't use too much to make it kick quicker.If you get too much in it will bleed through later on and stain your paintjob.Don't freak over this because you have to use alot for it to happen,but it does happen.When you're ready to prime,most urethane primers can be shot with or without reducer-reduce it no matter who tells you not to.When I get around 180grit and finer,I use the full amount of reducer allowed,and the reducer I would use in the paint-but.Refering to PPG's line,there's DT860,870,885,895,and whatever the retarder # is.If it's 80-90 degrees use 885,but never use 895 or retarder(if you live up north you probably can't get retarder).Put a wet coat on as thin as possible but still smooth and let it flash until you can run your hand over it without smudging it and repeat 2 more times.Block and repeat.The only time I use less than 3 coats is my last prime over 220 or finer and then I put on 2.Guide coat is great if you have a hard time seeing the difference between the sanded primer and unsanded primer in scratches and low spots.I make my own if I use it by thinning black lacquer about 250-300% with wash grade thinner(elcheapo) and blowing over my last coat of primer just before it flashes,but stay back about 18-24" and just dust it on to tinge the surface with color.Take care for now.

I forgot to mention,I use the putty because it doesn't soak up the primer anywhere near as bad as mud(bondo) because it isn't as porous.Cool wheels you're making too,post us a pic if you can.

[ 04-02-2002: Message edited by: rex ]
 
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PYB

Guest
Thanks for the additional info all of my past experience with body work has been on circle trackers and moto-x bikes and the rebuilding of an 46' willis jeep so you can see I need and appreciate all the advise I can get from those that have been there done that. Thanks again Rex
 
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