Plastic work almost done, 'glassed in some tabs, and screwed on some screen for the background. Then fabricated a "spear" for the scoop opening. Still not sure I like the shape/size, might make it longer up front. Also have to cut and weld the upper scoop line on the door, doesn't line up.
Looks like that will be tough to get all lined up since you pretty much have to do this off the car.
Is the whole door down. Looks like if you raised the door a bit, the top bodyline would line up and possibly line up the scoop lines.
I have to hand it to you, you're doing a great job overall though.
Can't wait to see the finished project (I'm sure I'm not the only one lol)
Thanks, Taz....I think just cutting and moving the edge up will be the fix. The reason the door looks "down", is that the new "bulge" I put on the door, to match the fender, has to be lower than the matching part on the fender. So when you open the door, it goes UNDER the fender instead of hitting it. I spent a lot of time trying to figure how this would work, until I just looked over at my 47 Chevy, where the door extension has the some look, so it clears the fender!
Worked on making the hood, the owner wanted it made out of aluminum. SO I had to learn how to weld it. I struggled for months, first using a TIG, then buying and learning how to gas weld it, but it kept cracking every time I hammered it, after welding. Finally had a welding instructor visit the shop and tell me that they gave me the wrong alloy! When I got the fright one (3003), it all worked out fine. I shaped the center section, on the Wheel, then "tipped" the body line to lead into the sides. When I finished the edge, it had straightened the hood back out, so I had to come back and shrink the edge to put the curve back into it.
Then I fabbed up the sides, very difficult, as it was a concave curve, in 2 directions. The front I had to gradually fade the body line into nothing. The front I'll have to make the opening match the fender grill opening.
The owner decided to put a depressed center section into the hood, instead of a scoop. And then put 2 long oval holes on the sides, with mesh inserts. The center section I was going to do on the bead roller, but since the sides were on it, it wouldn't fit. I got the idea to adapt the bead roll dies to my English Wheel, by using bearings, and spacers, and it worked. The depressed center goes from 3/8" down to nothing up front, so it was tricky doing it. The holes I made an oak hammerform, and cut, and hammered them in. Next step is to finally put the aluminum skin on the steel framework!
Yes, still at it, though working in the heat of this summer was pretty difficult! Finally got the hood in primer last week. The customer changed his mind about the scoop in the fenders, wanting them opened up right into the wheel well opening, like the Aston Martin Volcano (?). So I had to make all new supports, as the fenders were now in 2 pieces. Still have to make a new spear for the fender scoop, but it's coming to an end soon.
Sprayed out some different colors for him, too. I talked him out of just plain, boring white, Tried Aston Quantum Silver, Madagaskar Gold, and now Volcano Red. Hope he picks on before I'm ready to spray!
I haven't updated this one in a while, but some time ago, I changed out the door handles to make it smoother. I used handles manufactured by Kendig Enterprises, the guy on TV. Very nicely machined parts! Had to cut out completely, the concave pocket for the stock handle and weld in a patch, with the proper cut-out for the Kendig handles. Kind of tricky install on this car, as I had to change the direction of movement to trip the door latch. Made a small bellcrank on the backside to do this.
Adding more stuff, to hopefully get more "action" on the old forum!
Since he wanted to change the fender opening on the Malibu, I also had to completely redo the fender-door "spear". Just made new ones from scratch, as they had to be so different. Made them out of regular steel this time (the old ones I did with stainless). I thought to bypass the hassle of running back and forth to the chrome plater several times to perfect the pieces, by using Eastwood's new Extreme Chrome powdercoat. So I bought some of their Lab Metal to fill in imperfections, and some powder 'primer' to fine tune them. Went all through the steps to make them perfect in primer, then put on the 'Chrome' powder. It all bubbled up! Ruined!
So I bit the bullet and blasted all the plastic stuff off, filled in the low spots with 95/5 solder, and off the chrome guy!
Been a long time, just about ready to do the final prep for paint. The owner wanted the rear window to look like the Zagato one, so I made some sheet metal covers to accomplish this. The spears came back from the chrome plater, look great! I undercoated and installed the fenders, and hood.
Put the final coats of primer on the car, and the owner picked a good color for it, the Aton Martin Volcano Red. I painted some of the interior trim to dress up the boring GM upholstery with it.
Went over the car a whole bunch of times, finding smaller and smaller imperfections to correct. Finally, after a long weekend, and a loooong Monday night, it's got paint on it. **** Dupont Premium clear is very thin, so I did get quite a few runs in it, but nothing I can't handle during cut and buff.
Had tons of trouble with the door jambs. Must have had a LOT of Armor All sprayed onto the weatherstripping. Soaked into the paint, too! First time to shoot them, nothing but fisheyes, every square inch! Spent over a week resanding and cleaning, and successful the next time.
Now it's time for days of color sanding.
I'm sure you can't wait to see that outside all done. Should look very sharp
sure did have fisheyes. Surprised you didn't get any on the outside of the car. Looks like you sprayed them the same time as the car. I hate doing that. You never know if that will happen or you end up getting something blow out of the jam, dirt, leaves....
Or when you close the door a piece of loose paper flies out at the last second and sticks in the clear on the outside.
There's literally a hundred or more things to make brackets for, wire in, hook up, or modify on this project! Finally got the rear Corvette bumper section installed. Had to mount the rear view camera to it, the truck release, and make brackets for the unusual back up light assembly ( looks like the one on the race car Zagato). Ron installed the door panels, and I wound up making a polished stainless steel hood support bar to hold the hood up. Adjusted the grill, Ron made brackets to support the electronic louvers that direct air to the radiator, and on, and on.