Analyze This Satin Black imperfection Professional Painters

fowlerjamar

New member
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Why the heck did the paint finish come out so ruff?

It looks like lines of dirt or sand all over the car. They can be seen easily and felt.

What can cause the paint finish to look like this?

Question? Since my car is already black, after I sand the car down it is still black, so when I spray the car, its hard to see where I need to start my overlap because the car is black and Im spraying black. Any suggestions?



What I do know!

1. I was a first time painter.

2. The gun seem to have random burst of paint when I sprayed. The sudden burst was like every 3 seconds of spraying. (I think the gun was dirty from the day before, but don't know)

3. I did not use a tac rag between coats. I did tac rag the car before I painted. Are you suppose to tac rag the car in between coats?

4. I also did not use a blower on the car.






TOday I have started the prep work for repainting the car please, I am taking ALL tips.




Backgroud:
-used and still using Kirker Hot Rod Black
-I am an ametur using a PROFESSIONAL paint facility
- Wash the car down with red Scuff pad
- I am first sanding the car down with 600 grit paper with orbital sander (wet).
-Then I will use 600 grit paper with the orbital sander dry.
- Then I will rewash the car
- then wipe the entire car down with wax and grease remover
- Mask the car
-Then finally I will sand the car down and wet.
 

TAZ

Administrator
Staff member
It's really hard to tell in the pics. Almost looks like it has a yellow substance or powder on it. But going by what you say, my guess would be that you applied it too dry. You need to apply satin black almost as though it's your last coat. All passes with your gun must flow together.

Also, I'm sure your gun didn't help any. That sounds like it has a bad seal toward the cap. This will take in air and give the gun a pulsating effect. At least that's what it sounds like.
You'll need to sand the paint job flat and re apply the satin black.
 

fowlerjamar

New member
It's really hard to tell in the pics. Almost looks like it has a yellow substance or powder on it. But going by what you say, my guess would be that you applied it too dry. You need to apply satin black almost as though it's your last coat. All passes with your gun must flow together.

Also, I'm sure your gun didn't help any. That sounds like it has a bad seal toward the cap. This will take in air and give the gun a pulsating effect. At least that's what it sounds like.
You'll need to sand the paint job flat and re apply the satin black.


The yellow substance was simply dirt, I was just concerned with the texture. Thanks for the good info Taz.

Another question taz. How to ensure that I dont have a bad seal again?

Also, when you say lat the coat wet, how to do that? Do you mean slow my strokes down, make more paint flow through the gun, or Open the span wider?

Last question Taz, the manufacture say I should spray the Kirker Hot Rod black at 10-- PSI with an HVLP gun, Dosen't that sound really low to you?
 

TAZ

Administrator
Staff member
Okay, almost looked like pollen on there, but I know it's not the season...yet.
If it's rough, you just put it on too rough. When you spray it, it should have nice gloss and reflection. You'll see the paint start dulling out by the time you come back around to that area.

A way to check is put some cheap thinner in your gun and just spray it, if it pulsates, you are in need of a gun rebuild.

Different ways to achieve a wet coat. The best way I can tell you the way I do it is I spray close to the surface (use your speed to adjust the amount that goes onto the surface). And do a 50% overlap, meaning do a full pass, then the top of your spray on your next pass should be in the middle of the previous pass. Hope that makes sense.
You should not see any passes when the paint starts dulling out.
Everyone thinks that the satin black paint job is an easy job to do, but this is one of the hardest to get right

10psi does sound low.
 

Wydir

New member
The 10psi is at the cap and is completly normal you should follow the inlet pressure at the gun which may be 25-40psi depending on model. im going to take a guess and you only had 10psi at the gun and the paint did not atomize at all and as a result well you know... just so you are aware you will never know you have 10psi at the cap unless you buy a special adapter for testing this. so just set inlet pressure at 30psi to start and adjust from there. practice on a scrap piece untill your ready to paint the car again no sence in doing it three times ;)
 

Trashcan Stan

New member
Like TAZ mentioned, maybe the gun itself needs a rebuild. Check it out. If other dudes use it and it works fine...you know what I'm saying.

But I'm with Wydir. Sounds like a PSI problem. You really should put a gauge on the inlet and see what pressure you have. 10 PSI at the inlet will not equate to 10 PSI at the cap. In fact, use a pressure gauge with a built in regulator. This will allow you to fine tune the outlet pressure. And just a little hint that was shared with me a while back...

When you set your outlet pressure using the adjustable regulator at the gauge, do it with the gun all the way open and not spraying any paint. This will give you the true air outlet pressure. Then do your fine tuning.
 

fowlerjamar

New member
Thanks alot Stan, Taz and Wydir. I am in the military so I use the paint booth on base. They have a professional booth and equipment. One other think I notice is when I orginianlly sprayed the car, I notice the the guauge on the gun was really loose and spinning around.


To correct the problem of a dirty gun, I went to Hatbor Fright tols today and bought a the professional 2 pcs auto spray gun. I hope this corrects the problem. But I will follow the tips to check what PSI I have going into the gun.
 
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