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Thread: 47 Chevy build?????

  1. #11

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    Excited to see progress, looks great!

  2. #12
    Veteran Painter chopolds's Avatar

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    Due to the fact that I had subframed the car, and the inner wheel wells were very rusty, I decided to make them from scratch. I'll spare you the details, but they had beads and offsets rolled into them for looks, and had curved corners instead of bent on a brake. I used mandrel bends to make them curve around the steering linkage.
    I wanted to extend the rear quarters of the Chevy to give it more of a teardrop look, streamline it a bit. So I picked up some extra door extensions, and trimmed them up and welded them to the fenders.
    Also installed a 50 Caddy front bumper on the rear, with a custom made splash pan. Made with a hammerform, so almost no filler needed on it. If anyone wants detail about any part of the build, just say so, I can fill in with more info.Chevybuild 003_w.jpgChevybuild 002_w.jpgChevybuild 004_w.jpgChevybuild 005_w.jpgChevybuild 006_w.jpgChevybuild 007_w.jpgChevybuild 008_w.jpgChevybuild 009_w.jpgChevybuild 010_w.jpgChevybuild 011_w.jpg

  3. #13
    Administrator TAZ's Avatar TAZ is a Level 1 Supporter


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    Either one of those colors would look sharp. Or a mix like you mentioned black base with candy scallops, possibly with a charcoal outline or ?
    Gonna be sharp!
    TAZ

  4. #14
    Veteran Painter chopolds's Avatar

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    The next idea for modification came about when we were sitting around on a Saturday night drinking beer and being creative! Looking at the side profile, I though we needed to change the short, chopped off looking Chevy door extension. I knew Olds had longer ones, but upon buying some, and checking, they had a different fender profile. SO I decided to use the Chevy front, and then graft the Olds onto it, making it even longer! Still not happy, Ron, Kenny and I again brainstormed, and came up with angling back the rear of the ext. instead of it's 90* drop off. What a world of difference it made! Had to fabricate it from scratch, and then make up all new supports, a bottom cap, and completely new rocker extensions to match the new door ones. Tons of work in this!Copy of 100_0249_w.jpgCopy of 100_0248_w.jpgdoorbubble13_w.jpgDSCF2085_w.jpgDSCF2492_w.jpg100_0511_w.jpg

  5. #15
    Veteran Painter chopolds's Avatar

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    After fitting up the Caddy bumper to the rear, I worked on makinChevybuild 013_1.jpgChevybuild 012_w.jpgChevybuild 013_w.jpgg the tail lights. I really like the bare look of the fenders at this point, so the tails got a classic 40's early 50's treatment....installed in the bumper guards. Using the stock 50 Caddy guards, I cut out the round ends, and cut down some 53 Buick lenses to fit in. The next problem was that the tall guards prevented the trunk lid from opening. So I cut off the bottom of the lid, and finished it off, and welded a panel to the bottom of the car (couldn't use the cut off trunk pieces, as it was too short, and I needed to fab up the inner trunk weatherstrip channel)
    Last edited by chopolds; 08-16-2014 at 08:36 AM.

  6. #16
    Administrator TAZ's Avatar TAZ is a Level 1 Supporter


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    Lot's or work you got going on there. Glad to see you have a lot of patience (and of course some beer in the fridge).
    Going to be a nice sled!
    TAZ

  7. #17
    Veteran Painter chopolds's Avatar

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    100_0574.jpg100_0575.jpg100_0577.jpg100_0576.jpg100_0587.jpg100_0590.jpg100_0592.jpg100_0597.jpgSo this is where the build start becoming longer than it should! Since I changed the profile of the door bubble, and really liked it, now the rear fender profile did not match (remember, it was made from extra door extensions). So back to the drawing board to fix it. I made a wooden buck to match the angle of the door extension, and to be able to match both sides from it. Then I used the sandbag, shrinker, tuck shrinking, and English wheel to form 3 separate pieces to make a brand new trailing panel for the rear fender. Lots of work, but when finishes, it matched the door better, and looked great!

  8. #18
    Veteran Painter chopolds's Avatar

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    The last big panel to complete, the hood. I wanted to put a peak on it, and make it one piece, but the way I used to do it (weld a rod or tube to the seam in the middle) used to warp the hood pretty badly and you couldn't correct it easily, if at all. So a friend made a 2" wide strip of sheet metal, and rolled a peak he made for his bead roller into it. Before I welded it in, I made a couple extra side to side braces for the underside, by welding 2 half's of a hammerfomed steel shape I made. These got welded to doublers I made for the hood edges, as they are prone to crack around the factory braces. Then an X shaped temporary brace to keep the hood sides from spreading was tacked in.
    Carefully, I cut out a 2" section, working about 8-9 inches at a time, out of the center, and welded in my peaked strip. I hammered and dollyed as I went along to control warpage. Very difficult to do on a flat piece of thin sheet metal! When finished, I also added a 3/16" rod to the trailing edge of the hood to stiffen it, and make it easier to keep it's shape. 100_0850_w.jpg100_0851_w.jpg100_0852_w.jpg100_0853_w.jpg100_0854_w.jpg100_0959_w.jpg100_0969_w.jpg100_0983_w.jpg0902141223.jpg

  9. #19
    Veteran Painter chopolds's Avatar

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    Got it all in one color primer, and temporarily assembled. Going to try to drive it around a bit before blowing it apart for paint.100_1016_w.jpg100_1013_w.jpg100_1014_w.jpg

  10. #20
    Administrator TAZ's Avatar TAZ is a Level 1 Supporter


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    Super job. A lot of work there. Going to be well worth it. Probably a good idea to drive it a while and just let all that work settle for a bit while you enjoy it!!!

    TAZ

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