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Thread: Soda Blasted Corvette

  1. #11
    Stranger

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    May 2013
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    Broussard, LA
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    Ok here is a list of the products recommended by a local body shop paint supply store. I think they steered me in the right direction, but please comment.

    Evercoat - Everglass p/n 100632 short strand fiber glass body filler w/cream hardener
    Evercoat - URO-Fill p/n 102224 4.8 VOC compliant acrylic urethane primer surfacer (1 gal)
    Evercoat - URO-Fill Activator p/n 102233 (32 oz)
    What reducer would I need for this primer? They didn't mention that.

  2. #12
    Wannabe

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    Jan 2013
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    SE Iowa
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    All the evercoat primer/surface I've ever used doesn't have a reducer. We use their Featherfill at our shop, and the 'activator' is pretty thin so I think they use an activator/reducer all together, usually a 4:1 mix.

  3. #13
    Painter Apprentice bondofreak's Avatar

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    Aug 2012
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    USA
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    I say matte the cracks after feathering out the area very well. Roll gel coat on the exposed strands over the whole car if need be. Let it cure out in the sun a few days. Then block it some with 80 staying off the lines. Scuff the lows, and blow it off. Follow with 2 coats epoxy let it sit over nite. Follow with the high build. JMO. Great advice you been getting.
    Last edited by bondofreak; 05-23-2013 at 09:37 PM.

  4. #14
    Stranger

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    Clearwater, Florida
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    I feel your pain! I did a '75 Vette for a customer that sounds like the same blind guy soda blasted his too. All the advice I've seen so far is spot on.
    From the nightmare that I restored, I went with resin and mat over the loose strands where holes were blown out by over blasting. The entire car was stripped of gelcoat, leaving nothing but exposed strands of raw glass and even had to replace the hood, l/f door and l/ T-Top. I found the easiest way was to coat the entire car in an initial layer of duraglass to lock in the raw glass, and to gain some resemblance to panel gaps and overall thickness of each panel. From there I went with evercoat body filler and smoothed everything out to make it all level and smooth. Few heavy coats of feather fill and a TON of blocksanding later, it looked like a Vette again. Plan on using plenty of elbow grease to block it all out. Unlike a steel body where when filling lows, you can only sand as far down as the metal. When basically reshaping a damaged fiberglass body there is nothing to stop you from sanding too deep. You are basically sculpting your own vehicle with no guide line or reference point other than the feel and sight to ensure a smooth, straight panel. It's been 5 years since I restored it for him and it still looks great so I must have done something right. Good luck with it.

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