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Thread: house of kolor color hold out

  1. #1
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    Default house of kolor color hold out

    Hi, i just painted a car using house of kolor base and clear. I think it is having problems with the color holding out, there are spots i can see sealer through the base coat, where i am 99% sure i had full coverage. The car is sprayed with the blue blood red. I did not use any house of kolor undercoats, the sealer is RM ep769, i didnt use ko-seal because of how much it shrinks and because its not sandable, and theres only a one hour window to paint over it. The epoxy was sanded to 800 grit before i based over it. Just curious if anyone else has had this problem.

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    I recently had the same problem with limetime pearl green. luckily it was on a panel that is just going to hang in my garage and I saw it before clear when I was starting to layout graphics. I have been dissapointed with HOK for the last couple of years. The only stuff of theirs I still even buy is marbilizer and dry flake. The paint store I buy from can basilcally make any HOK color in PPG. I always end up tweaking the colors anyways. I used to swear by HOK until a few years back I painted a Ford Super duty and the UC-35 checked when it dried. I had HOK look at it and they said it came from a bad batch, nut they wouldn't do anything to cover the failure. A friend of mine also had UC-35 wrinkle on a complete paint job around the same time period. HOK basically said aorry and wouldn't cover their product. I think they started the downhill slide when Valspar took them over. Just my 2cents.

  3. #3
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    Thanks, this is the first time i sprayed hok, we normally use glasurit. I would never recommend it to anyone, their undercoats are terrible, and the uc35 is garbage too, i left about an ounce in a mixing cup to see how it shrinks, needless to say its pretty bad, it probably lost 1/3 of its size. Theres about 1200 hours in body work and paint in this car, its a 55 bel air, so failing paint isnt good at all. It still looks pretty good, i juat wasnt sure if i over looked these spots, or if the basecoat isnt holding out. Thanks for your info!

  4. #4
    TAZ
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    Welcome to the forum tylerkrause86
    I assume that ep769 is a white sealer? I did a Google search for it and low and behold, your post was first on Google already (search RM ep769 that was quick to get indexed)

    Anyway, we've been using PPG and HOK for about 8 years now and haven't had too many problems. As long as you used a white sealer or ground coat, it should only take about 3-4 coats of the Blue Blood Red to get 100% coverage. If you used a gray or darker, it would take a few more coats of red.

  5. #5
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    Ep769 is actually a black epoxy. I sprayed 5 coats, and in the booth i could not see through the red, i was very positive i had full coverage, now about 5 weeks later, the car is sanded and buffed, and theres quite a few spots that im able to easily see black through the red, thats my concern, im not sure if it was overlooked in the paint booth without clear on it, or if the color isnt holding out or soaking into the epoxy or something. Im hoping it wasnt a mistake, but at the same time if the color isnt holding out, i just hope it doesnt get worse. Thanks for your help. Have you have problems with the uc35 hardening? The clear on this car is still very soft, and its been baked probably 3 times through out the wet sanding process, so it should be plenty hard by now.

  6. #6
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    Black is the worst possible color you can use under 'any' solid red. All reds are transparent, so you want to 'help' the red along by using an undercoat that makes the red cover easily.
    You probably "thought" you had it completely covered, but under certain lighting conditions and certain angles you can see 'through' the red into the black.

    I have plenty of post recommending this, including a post in the "helpful tips". Same goes with a solid yellow. Always use a white sealer. You'll use less red to get the max coverage.

    I'm sure if you did a test panel with a white base and one with a black base, and you put three coats of solid red on it, you'll see that the red over the black darkens the color quite a bit.

    Also, all the Shimrin PBC (Passion Pearl, Tangelo.....) colors recommend a white as a base, I recommend a slightly off white or a very light gray.

    I haven't had any problems with the UC35. That's the ONLY clear we use and we go through about 3 gallons a week. We normally buff the next day, or the day after.

    My guess would be that if the clear still appears soft, it's not the "clear" that's soft, it's because you had to put so much red base over the black to get good coverage.The red is sandwiched between the clear and the black so it didn't have the proper time to flash/cure. So you have lot's of red base that does not have any hardener under your clear...and that makes your clear appear to be soft.

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    What I read I really liked it. Thank you for your information!

  8. #8

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    Same goes with a solid yellow. Always use a white sealer. You'll use less red to get the max coverage.

    I'm sure if you did a test panel with a white base and one with a black base, and you put three coats of solid red on it, you'll see that the red over the black darkens the color quite a bit.

    Also, all the Shimrin PBC (Passion Pearl, Tangelo.....) colors recommend a white as a base, I recommend a slightly off white or a very light gray.

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    Im hoping it wasnt a mistake, but at the same time if the color isnt holding out, i just hope it doesnt get worse. Thanks for your help. Have you have problems with the uc35 hardening? The clear on this car is still very soft, and its been baked sizzling hot deluxe online freeprobably 3 times through out the wet sanding process, so it should be plenty hard by now.

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